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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/10/2008
Posts: 90
Points: -397
Location: Spring Hill Florida
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When I build cabinets I generally use plywood. To finish the exposed edges I sometimes use beaded molding and wonder if you guys might have a trick to make this joint. The picture shows the joint I want to make. Think of the upright as the leg of the cab and the horizontal piece a shelf. I know I could miter say the top and run the bottom vertical leg straight across but I would like to have this all fit so all the lines flow. The drawing might not be perfect but I think it should suffice to show the issue. 3/4" plywood - 3/4" molding thats about 1/8" thick.
Paul attached the following image(s):
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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Rank: Charter Member
Joined: 1/26/2008
Posts: 82
Points: 264
Location: Idaho
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Paul so your making a V dado in the up right cabinet?
Paul - I did not make the connection that you are MinConst over at Woodworking Talk.
LOL small world.
Larry
"Have you hugged your pet today?"
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/10/2008
Posts: 90
Points: -397
Location: Spring Hill Florida
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Hi Larry, Yea MinConst here. I'm done with the cabinet. This is a normal issue I run into.
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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Rank: Charter Member
Joined: 1/26/2008
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Points: 264
Location: Idaho
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Can you post a photo of the joint that you made - I would interested in what you did. I know so little about woodworking - I wish I could help people more.
Larry
"Have you hugged your pet today?"
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Rank: Administration
Joined: 1/10/2008
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Points: -397
Location: Spring Hill Florida
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Hi Larry, I haven't been able to make this joint satisfactorily yet thats why the question. 
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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Rank: Charter Member
Joined: 1/27/2008
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Points: 387
Location: North Java, NY
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Are you trying to make a v- groove to joint the shelf to the cabinet w/ molding on the edge of the shelf? For the v-groove, I would probaly use a router bit like this V groove bit. It is towards the bottom of the page. If this not what you mean please let me know. I am somewhat a blockhead and things do not always sink in right away 
Quality hardwood moldings,custom fuirniture and refinishing
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Rank: Administration
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Location: Spring Hill Florida
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AL, Yes you get it. I think from the choices the 5428 might work. But its hard to tell if the V is clean on the bottom with the way the diagram shows the numbers. Iw ould need the grove to be like the one in the tp example but 3/4" at the widest point. 
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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Rank: Charter Member
Joined: 1/26/2008
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Points: 264
Location: Idaho
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It appears that the v - dado/groove (depending which way your going on the grain) would be easy to make and then cutting the 45/60 degree to fit on the shelf would not be that hard using solid wood. I can see a problem using plywood, because of the chipping and voids in the wood. Baltic Birch may not give that problem, but the cost of the project could go up. I am going to have to get some scraps and try this joint.
Larry
"Have you hugged your pet today?"
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Rank: Administration
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This is only thin solid wood trim to cover the exposed edge of the cabinet grade plywood carcass. It's like screen mounding except it has beading on the face. This joint is not for the carcass.
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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Rank: Charter Member
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Location: North Java, NY
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Let us know if you try it and if it works for you. You can always call them and ask. They are good about helping ew/ problems.
Quality hardwood moldings,custom fuirniture and refinishing
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Rank: Charter Member
Joined: 11/16/2008
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Location: Tulsa, OK
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Hey Paul,
New member here.
This seems to be a stagnant topic, but I thought this idea might work for you. It's actually an old technique for fitting window muntins.
Of course the horizontal pieces can be easily cut on a power miter saw but try this for the verticals...
First center a 1 X 2 sacrificial fence to your TS's miter gauge - several inches longer than twice the span from the miter slot to the blade.
Make certain your miter gauge is exactly at 0 deg so it tracks perfectly perpendicular to the blade (use a square for accuracy).
Then set your TS blade to precisely 45 deg (use an architect's square, again for accuracy) raised to full height.
Switch on the saw and pass the fence through the blade to define the 45 deg cut. Now for the "trick"; lift the miter gauge completely off the table and turn it around 180 deg (so that the blade of the fixture is facing you) reset it into the miter slot this way and make the same cut on the opposite end. Re-orienting the MG in this fashion will allow you to cut both "legs" of the notch while always keeping the back of the molding against the fence with the bead facing outward.
Carefully adjust the blade height to half the width of your molding and make test cuts on scrap to verify settings.
Mark the cut lines of the "V-notches" on the back of the molding and align with the cut edges the fence. You can clamp the work for safety and precision - spring clamps should prove sufficient - and you're ready to mill all the "V-notches needed, flipping the MG for each notch side as you go.
P.S. You'll achieve best results with a sharp, narrow kerf, 60 tooth blade.
Hope this helps.
R
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Location: Spring Hill Florida
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rush, This is exactly what I've been looking for. I even understood it :-) Well after the second read. I knew there must be a trick to making it. Just couldn't figure one out. I will be trying this technique out soon. Thanks Paul
Paul WebsiteI will never leave you hanging!
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